Four For The Day - Kolar Temple Run
Bengaluru to Kolar : 71 Kms.
Gold Fields brought the place much fame . But even without the gold, some medieval kings thought much of the region, Kuvalala or Kolahalapura, with its rocky hills and fertile lands . The Western Gangas made it their earliest Capital . When Kings from down South pushed northwards with land-grabbing intentions, they targeted Kolar first
No surprise that temples sprang up around the region, commissioned by one or the other of the title holders. Temple building must have been a status symbol thing then. Now we have a good variety fare to savour , thank you.
A Kolahala Temple run – covering as much as decently possible in one day .
No rushing.
1. KOLARAMMA TEMPLE .
She started out as one of the 7 Guardian Mothers - Protectors of the village .
The Western Gangas set up CHAMUNDA in a special shrine, in Kolar Town , surrounded by the other Mothers. Huge Images made of Stucco. The core shrine they built , with lovely squat pillars , low ceilinged pavilions and dark womb-chambers got a lot of additions and inscriptions when the Cholas captured Kolar and renamed the Guardian Mother as PIDARI , the War Goddess.
By the end of 19th century , she had been renamed again – KOLARAMMA (Mother of Kolar) . She was propitiated to protect the populace during epidemics.
The handsome temple carries it age gracefully . Nothing flashy or flamboyant . The presiding icon is set at an angle and is best viewed in the huge mirror opposite .
In addition to this Mother , another Protecting avatar called Chelamma ( Scorpion Mother) has become very popular . Offering Protection from scorpion stings .
From Wars to Pox to Scorpion stings , people have always reposed faith in a Mother to give them support and solace, even if Scriptures offer a choice of 33 Crore well armed Devatas, each with one thousand names .
Speaking of names, an icon here which looks 100% like a Bhairava is curiously given a feminine, “ –amma” , name . What can one say except that we, the people, have a Mother fixation !
In the outer courtyard of the Kolaramma temple is a huge stone slab illustrating a fierce war . The Veeragal ( Hero Stone) dates from Ganga times . The temple compound is raised high like a fortress and the main portal , built in Vijayanagar times, has two very beautiful sculpted portraits of the huntress from folklore , Chenchulakshmi , on either side.
2. SOMESHWARA TEMPLE
A standard 14th-15th cent Vijayanagara paleygar style temple with all the flounces , flourishes and figures expected of the genre- the multi tiered gopuram, the leaping Yaali riders , the lizard on the roof , the composite pillars, the highly ornate but stiff women , the rishis and yogis in difficult poses , the jesters, the ubiquitous hooded shepherd leaning on his staff …..
The façade looks almost identical to Someshwara temple in Halasuru( Bangalore) . On the pediment of The Kalyana Mantapa are impressively proportionate , tiny figures of Baravahakas , worth a Wow.
Kolar to Kurudumale : 36 kms.
3. KURUDUMALE SOMESHWARA ( Mulbagal Taluk)
Now this is a really fine temple , raised bang on top of a rock , without foundation. “Believed to be built by Raja Raja Chola” . Temple is accessed by a short flight of steps.
The pillars of the porch have interesting, well executed panels illustrating forms and stories of Shiva. Can spend some time over them .
A large , cute Ganesha sits by the entrance balustrade , sadly locked inside a grill cage to protect him from over- enthusiastic pilgrims.
There are no koshtas on the outer walls , which are relieved by lovely pilasters , but a row of tiny figures in kudus can be seen on the parapet above.
In the Navaranga are found many loose icons , among which the impressive Vishnu and Consorts group is said to have been moved into this place for safety from another shrine in a nearby town.
Two independent shrines , for the Devi and Subrahmanya , are situated behind the main temple.
The Devi has an unusual, lovely name : Kshamadamba .
4. KURUDUMALE GANESHA
Right across the road from Someshwara , lies the path to the very famous Ganesha temple . It attracts a lot of pilgrims .
Quite a spacious temple yard , with not much ornamentation. A very large Mooshika sculpture lords it over in the mukhamantapa .
The construction of the temple or its extension/renovation must have been during the reign of Vijayanagara Chiefs, as the Empire’s Crest , The Boar and The Dagger , is seen carved on the ceiling of the front mantapa.
In modern times , renovation was done by The Dharmasthala Trust .
The presiding Ganesha is about 13 feet tall.
Navaranga has pillars with sculpted panels. Thre Gajasamhara pose seen here is quite lively and very different from the standard one seen in Chola temples.
Back home for supper . A day well spent .
Kolaramma and Someshwara Shrines are ASI Protected
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