A Mini Yatra in historic THAGADUR / Dharmapuri
Dharmapuri was always on peripheral vision , as one of the names that popped up on highway signboards during occasional journeys to Grandmother's natal village in Musiri District. Never a pit stop . But the name was invariably commented upon : Dharmapuri : a City upholding Dharma......why, how, by whom ? Never found out !
Dharmapuri entered The Bucket List of Must See Destinations only when interest in Nolamba Architecture fizzed up a few years ago among like-minded friends. Dharmapuri had one treasure hailed as a cornucopia of refined Southerrn Nolambavadi Sculptural Art : Kamakshamma Temple , built in 9 CE , when Thagadur , ie ancient Dharmapuri, was an important junction on a busy trade route of Nolambavadi -32000 . Nolamba-Pallava King Mahendra had also developed the settlement of Mahendramangalam, within Thagadur region , which is today called Adiyamankottai . What is today called Dharmapuri , was Thagadur in Sangham Era - both the District and the Town .
It was Kadaikottur NanadesiPattinam under Hoysala VeeraRamanatha, Jeyamkondacholamandalam under Cholas and Baramahal under the Mysore Sultanate. (both District and Town ) So who called it Dharmapuri ? In all probability , it was The Vijayanagara Rulers . Did they also introduce Mango cultivation here ? Wondering . Dharmapuri , with Salem, produces 70% of Tamil Nadu's total Mango output.
Many writers of online content keep repeating the trope that Thagadur is named for Thagadu ie, Thin Sheet of Iron , harking back to the discovery of Iron ore here ! Seems far fetched that Classical Sangham poets would be singing idylls to a lump of ferrous earth . But much relieved to find , under heaps of misinfo , a genuine explanation. "Thagadu" in Classic Tamil means the delicate petals of a Lotus bloom. Habitation was apparently developed like the whorls of lotus petals around the core city , hence Thagadu Oor .
This dusty little flatland surrounded by wooded hill ranges and watered by Kaveri and S.Pennaiar ( Dakshina Pinakini) holds together the edges of three present-day States -Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra . Consequently, it has enjoyed being cosmopolitan in language , food , customs and place-names since long before the World shrank.
A Brief History of Everything and Everyone wrt Thagadur / Dharmapuri
To begin with , its history is anything but brief . When inspired archeos dug around , they unearthed relics dating from Megalithic, New Iron Age times. 2500 -3000yrs is not brief.
The finds :
*Cave Art in Mallapadi . Lively hunting scenes in white and russet .
* A big huddle of Dolmens in Mallasandram ( which locals call Pandavar Kovil - this "pandavar" is only a twist of "Pattavar" ( ie The Dead) . PS: Youtube & TikTok clips asserting that dolmens were houses of a race of dwarves ( Kulla Manithar kudi) may kindly be binned.
* 2500yr old rock circles in rare Labyrinth form , in Kambainallur. Locally called "Ezhu Suttu Kottai Sami" (God of the Seven ringed Fort) . Offered worship too , on a special day ! No comments, except to hope that they find Moksha by mastering the Labyrinth.
* Iron Age Pot Sherds, bricks , tools , burial pots and grave goods - all exhibited in the local museum.
Thence to Recorded History Times , of who administered Dharmapuri successively (Following material is from The ASI Museum , hence assumed correct ) :
Sangam Era : ( 3 BCE to 2 CE) : The Athiyamans
W. Gangas (670 CE- 814 CE)
Nolambas ( 870CE - 945CE) they ruled as vassals, successively, to Gangas and Rashtrakutas
Banas ( 8 CE )
Cholas : ( 985 - 1279) - Scions of Athiyaman lineage served as their Palegars.
Hoysalas ( 1220 -1312 )
Vijayanagara ( 1355 -1576 ) - includes their Subordinates , The Wodeyars of Mysore and the various Nayakas
Mysore Sultanate ( 1772 - 1799 )
Kumpeni Sarkar ( East India Co and Brits) 1799 to 1947
Throughout history, Thagadur seems to have been prosperous enough for great Kings to fight over its possession. For one thing, its geographical location made it a hub for traders from different directions , a busy Trade Route ran through the land.
Some Trader Trivia :
"Adiyaman Peruvazhi" : ( Adiyaman Highway) Peruvazhis were highways that connected Pattinams or Market cities . Two ancient milestones were discovered very close to Dharmapuri town carrying the inscription : " Adiyaman Peruvazhi naavalthavalathirku kaadam29 " and "...27"
Naavalthaavalam = Travelers Inn . The Highway was apparently dotted with such Inns offering bed and board to travelers and traders . Kaadam is a measurement of distance , 1 K is approx 10 miles. The stone gives the numbers in Tamil numerals and, for the illiterate , there's a pictograph showing shallow holes in two rows : two big ones to denote the tens place, with seven /nine smaller holes below that to denote the units place. The stones belong to 13th Century. (That busy Trading was happening here can also be inferred by the name given to the place in Hoysala times : Nanadesi Pattinam .Nanadesi was a Traders' guild .) Traders from other parts have also been documented as having built a shrine here . Special security squads called "Atthikosam" were provided by The Athiyamans for traders.
Hero Land !
Huge numbers of Herostones ( Nadukal in tamil, Veeragal in Kannada) have been found in Dharmapuri region , necessitating ASI to organise a whole museum dedicated to such stones. The Museum is close to the Bus Stand and is ticketed. All kinds of hero stones are found here, with and without inscriptions. Both Tamil and Kannada scripts are seen . The memorialised heroes died mostly during Wars, hunts , cattle heists and in self sacrifice. Many hunts show Tigers ( Pulikutthi Nadukal) . There's a sizeable collection of Sati Stones too .
Self Sacrifice , called Arikandam and Navakandam in Tamil , either to please Kottravai the War Goddess , or as a show of loyalty to the overlord , seems to have been prevalent from very early times. The Nadukals show gory illustrations of self decapitation with a sword to the neck and one even shows a head being offered on a tray ! ( "Navakandam" is when the devotee slices off 9 chunks from his limbs and body before cutting off his head.)
Other than these stones, the small museum also has exhibits of prehistoric times ,a few 17th century sculptures, cannons and swords. Some helpful explanatory notes are also put up , but sadly the posters are not in good condition.
An Epic Connect
"Thagadur Yatthirai" is a Sangham age epic poem , describing a great war between a Chera King and an Athiyaman King . But the original work is lost , only 48 verses from it have been collected from different literary writings where it has been referenced for its faultless composition , choice of subject, treatment and keen observation . We do not know for certain who the kings were , but popular imagination connects it to the known names Athiyaman Neduman Anji and Perumcheral Ilamporai . The latter does flaunt the title "Thagadur Erintha " ( Conqueror of Thagadur)
The Stars !
Adiyaman Neduman Anji is the most famous Adiyaman ruler , counted among the Kadai-Ezhu-Vallal (The Great Benevolent Ones) of Sangham era and is much celebrated for his deep and abiding friendship with and patronage of the brilliant lady poet Avvaiyar. As a tribute to her mastery over Tamil, he gifted her the Miraculous Gooseberry ( Nelli-k-kani) which gives long life , rather than consume it himself. This theme ( King- giving-lady - gooseberry) has become the much cherished logo of Dharmapuri , so much so that posters, public wall art and sculptures of them are found everywhere . The names "Athiyaman" and "Avvai" are ubiquitous ; everything from schools ,hospitals and cinema theaters to hair-styling salons , garment shops and cool drink kiosks are named after either of them . Wondering why Dharmapuri does not cultivate Gooseberry and get it GI-Tagged.
The line of Adigamans was once considered as mighty as The Big Three of The South: Chera-Chola-Pandyas . They called themselves Satyaputras . One of Ashokas edicts refers to them thus.
Fortless Fort town
Athiyamankottai ( Fort of Athiyaman) , 7 Kms from Dharmapuri Town, was built by the Athiyaman chiefs ruling Thagadur under the Cholas . They vanished from the scene after downfall of Cholas. The Fort too has vanished , though the temples are still called Kottai Kovils.
Chenraya ( Chennaraya)Perumal Temple here was originally built during Hoysala reign , but has entrance and mantapa of Vijayanagar Nayaka times . It is a modest sized temple with no sculpted flourishes one would normally associate with the label Hoysala . But it has one stunning jewel : Murals ! The entire ceiling and beams of the mukhamantapa are covered with paintings narrating tales from Ramayana , Mahabharata and Krishna leelas. In Vijayanagara's signature style , where classicism is overtaken by earthy folk idioms. Predominant colors are Red and Black , with washes of ochre and dull green at places. The lines are fine , decorations intricate .
Unfortunately , paintings in the lateral bays are ruined by seepage and flaking . At places , it looks like the panels were either unfinished or some painting/plastering over was started as restoration. Uniquely, the Rama Pattabhishekam panel shows gesso -work for raised effect, probably was covered with gold foil. Now , it is just patchy , dark and chipping. Heart bleed.... !
The presiding icons do not look too old. Pujas are offered and since it is ASI protected , the temple is kept open throughout the day . The compound is green and lush with shady trees and watered lawns. Local students preparing for competitive exams use this place for peaceful study.
The other important temple here is of Kala-Bhairava . Totally modernised . Seems to have a lot of devout following . Lighting lamps in halved ash gourd seems to be popular . As also putting a lock on a grill fence around the sacred tree , as a vow. How strange to see this lock business cutting across all religions, all countries ! Also amused to see a fine icon of Parshwanatha Tirtankara , installed in an open pavilion , smeared with haldi-kumkum -chandanam etc and worshipped as Ayyanar. No quarrel with it though. Ekam satt , bahuda vadanti viprah .
And oh , a nice Labrador like Doggie in the Vahana Mantapa in front !
KAMAKSHAMMA & MALLIKARJUNA
The twin temples , in Dharmapuri town , also suffixed by the word Kottai , were built by Nolambas ; specific date of dedication not known , as there's no foundation inscription . Only Grant shasanas. The two shrines are not identical and may have been built one after the other.
Kamakshamma temple is more ornate , with more inspired motifs . Most amazing is the frieze on the upapitha , running all around the temple continuously . The panels are not more than 10 inches in height , yet the loveliness they have managed to invest in the little figures is remarkable. The easy grace seen in the seated or reclining bodies reminds of Late Chalukyan style. The theme is Ramayana , with a bit of secular themes like the royal court, dancers etc added. For some reason, the frieze starts somewhere on the lateral side and runs Apradakshina ( counter clockwise). The chitrakhanda pillars of the main mantapa inside have square panels towards the top with Shiva leela motifs in bas relief. The ceiling is adorned with a 9 panel grid of Ashtadikpalas around Uma Maheshwara . It has well executed outlines , but finish is rudimentary. could it have just weathered ? There is a scholarly thought that the temple was perhaps built as a Shivalaya , and the Devi got installed later.
Mallikarjuna shrine right next to it has a simple exterior , with nothing much of artistic note on the outer walls , beyond the adorable Nandi. But the Chitrakhanda pillars inside are an eye full ! Each pillar has dozens of figures running in vertical registers and flying gandharvas under the pillow capital. Some paint is visible , but not known if Nolamba vintage or later. The base of one pillar is not stuck to the ground and "hangs".
The piece de resistance is the Dikpala grid on the ceiling . What a beauty ! Can place it as a second to the incomparable Aralaguppe ceiling.
The priests were unusually friendly and lenient , allowing photography right upto the Sanctum ! Besides , they even pointed out "the Hanging Pillar" providing a newspaper as testing material !
A most fulfilling visit , meeting all high expectations ...and more. A journey across 2500 years in one and a half days.
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