Tripping Around Peshwa Lands
A trip to understand the life , times and intrigues in a section of Maharashtra when Peshwas were riding high .
PESHWAS
When considered in terms of duration in India's long history, the influence of Peshwas was rather short - from 1713 to 1818 . From Moropant Pingale ( appointed by Shivaji) to Baji Rao II & Nana Saheb . Still, their history is charismatic , filled with action and pizzazz , contributing the crucial "atmosphere" for the history of that amazing band , The Maratha Confederacy, and its larger-than-life central figure , Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj , whose mere name can send the average Marathi Manoos into throes of jingoistic fervor .
A decidedly colourful bunch , these Peshwas . Second only to the Emperor , their clout at times overshadowed that of The Throne , reducing the Crown to a mere nominal decoration. Mostly from the Brahmin fold , the Peshwas were not only able administrators, sharp diplomats and resourceful strategists , but courageous fighters on the battlefield too .
And , as in all instances of unbridled power , a few had become bad eggs too .
PUNE:
Can be called the base-camp of Peshwas . Their story started here . Pune ( Earlier names : Punyavishaya , Punawadi ) was part of the Jagir ( Fief) given to Maloji Bhosale by the Ahmadnagar Sultanate and , from him , inherited by his son Shahaji Bhosale .
When Shahaji started getting too popular and influential for the Sultanate's comfort , he was packed off to manage Bengaluru , far from his Jagir, leaving his family in Pune.
His son , young Shivaji , weaned on stories of bravery and justice told by his legendary mother Jija Bai , took a fancy for shaking off their dependency on the Sultanate and embarked on a grand mission to establish something too ambitious for the time., a Hindvi Swaraj .
Due to the networking abilities of Jija Bai , the teenager was able to gather support of the people and started capturing crucial Forts around Pune - Torna , Rajgad, Kondhana and Purandar - through negotiations with local governors , bribes and , where needed, combat .
It is said that initially, Daddy-dearest , loyal to his superiors , was not very thrilled with the youngster's adventures ! But was won over eventually.
Lets skip the details of Shivaji's political career and get to the Peshwas ( the subject matter of this trip). Since administration needed able ministers , Shivaji established a Council of Eight ( Ashta Pradhan) : Peshwa ( Prime Minister), Amatya ( Finance Minister) Sachiv (Secretary of State) Mantri ( Intelligence Head and Internal Affairs) Senapati ( Military Head) Sumant ( Foreign Policy /External Affairs) Nyayadish ( Chief Justice)and Panditrao (Religious matters). Peshwas headed The Cabinet .
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SHANIWAR WADA
The hustle bustle , the patches of greenery , the stretches of well laid roads , the colonial architectural vestiges , all make Pune a sister city to namma Bengaluru . But with the added spice of Forts , temples , ASI monuments etc popping up randomly here and there .
Among them , Shaniwar Wada.
Built in 1732 , spread across 6.25acres , home to 22 buildings , five major gateways with massive iron spiked doors , 14 Fountains and water bodies, including a Hazari Karanji , a fountain of 1000 jets , a marvel in its time . ( It was installed to amuse a Peshwa kid , it seems ! ) .
The grand Fort burned down in 1828, cause never known. But , how does a stone fort get reduced to ashes ? Well, there was a time when society was strictly stratified. What one could and could not do was determined by the strata one occupied. The Fort was built by a vey powerful Peshwa , Baji Rao-1 , second in rank to The Chhatrapati ( Emperor) . But Rules were that only a Chhatrapati had the right to build a fully stone structure , others had to limit themselves to a base of stone ( in this case , the first floor only) and the rest of the levels had to be in brick and lots of timber . And this Fort was seven storied ! Enough firewood for a 7 day long bonfire.
Anyway , whatever was left has now been made into a well captioned , well maintained walk through premises . Its like walking on a giant , stony BluePrint of the ground plan . The surrounding walls and some ramparts , including the impressive entrance are still holding up. A grand equestrian statue of Baji Rao and an immense National Flag add the required touch of patriotism to the ticketed monument.
History , especially the military kind, always leaves behind some ghosts . The Wada has a resident ghost too . At the spot called "Narayan Darwaza", where the young Narayan Rao , the 10th Peshwa , was murdered by assassins hired by his own Uncle and Aunt (Raghunath Rao and Anandibai) in a shameful plan to grab power . The unfortunate man's ghost haunts the place to this day, they say , crying out his piteous last words "Kaka mala vachava!" (Uncle, save me !) on full moon nights.
One of the doorways, a modest one, has been named Mastani Darwaza, It was for that poor girl Mastani who , like some chattel , was "given" to Peshwa Baji Rao , by her father, King of Bundela , as a gift for helping him win a battle. She had her quarters within the Fort with an exit door , but was not allowed use of the common gardens and pavilions . Her son died fighting for the Marathas, in one of the innumerable battles of the time . Hers must have been a wretched life. And they make a jazzed up , glamorous movie full of falsified history , which now brings starry eyed visitors to take selfies at her gate !
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Wanawadi , Pune Cantonment
Becoming a Ghost is not an afterlife choice for valiant heroes who die noble deaths in battles . They are well respected , paid due homage and eulogized in folk songs . One even got a grand mausoleum dedicated to him - a century later .
The Mahadji Shinde Chhattri , a unique , startling architectural medley of Anglo and Rajput styles , is a glitzy memorial hall , added to the front of a traditional Bhumija type Shivalaya that was built by Mahadji himself in 1794 . Mahadji was a powerful statesman who ruled from Gwalior as part of The Maratha Confederacy, making the Mughal Shah Alam his puppet and the Marathas the dominant power of the time . Having died almost right after building his Shivalaya , he was cremated in front of it and his ashes kept in a humble shrine there . It was only in 1910 that his descendants got this memorial put up for him - all marble , crystal Chandeliers, colored glass windows and gilt mouldings. With a row of Rishis perched on the parapet of the flat roof above a row of elephant-faced gargoyles !
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Ranje Gaon ( Bhor Taluk) , Pune : This small village was recommended for two reasons:
1. The village claims its connection to teenaged Shivaji through the legend of his administering justice by cutting off the the limbs of a Village Governor , who , under the Sultanate's protection, had freely indulged in atrocities , including rape of a poor woman . The last misdeed had attracted the above punishment. It is said that this incident endeared Shivaji - as someone taking up the cause of the oppressed - to the general populace , thus helping build a strong support base for his cause of Swarajya.
2. A water management system , wherein a series of three spring-fed tanks in Peshwai Temple premises ensured that no water was lost and every drop utilised fully . The first tank to get filled was for puja purposes , the overflow from this went to the second tank , meant for ritual bath . the overflow from this went to the third tank earmarked for washing clothes . The waste water was finally led out of the premises by clay pipes to the fields . This Triple Tank Feature is said to be seen only in that region in temples of that particular vintage .
Interesting to see this arrangement in Ranjeshwar Temple , built in Peshwa times ; some of the building material for this temple came from an earlier, ruined Chalukyan temple .
Next to this temple is the Ranjekar Wada , the Manor built by Shamraj Nilkanth Ranjeshwar , a Peshwa appointed by Shahaji and sent with a Cabinet of ministers to Shivaji to help him get his initial bearings.
The Manor was converted into an Old Age Home by the 20th century descendants , with the addition of some eye-sore structures , which too have now fallen to utter ruin . However , the Lakshmi Narayan Temple , within the compound , is well preserved . One curiosity : The blackstone icon of Lakshmi was reportedly carved by an European sculptor , as per wishes of the then Lady of the Manor . Very pretty image , with very European looking flowering vines on either side of the goddess !
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SASWAD
Saswad, at the foot of Purandar Hills , was the base of Peshwa Balaji Vishwanath and of his hereditary Knights , the Purandares , who managed Purandar fort. Historically , it was a busy junction in the ancient Trade Route from Konkan Coast to Interior Deccan , and, consequently , home of Buddhist monasteries funded by rich merchants - none of which have survived.
Two Peshwai temples by the River Karha , in Saswad , exemplify these features . Sangameshwar and Changavateshwar . Though the temple interiors are clean , the river banks are littered with garbage . Both temples have very tall , multi tiered Deepa Malas ( Deepasthambhas) that would look ethereal when fully lighted on dark nights.
Curiously , both temples display boards giving the Fee Rates for photo shoots ! And sure enough , a couple of shoots were happening during the visit ! Looks like , just a selfie will no longer do ! Social media demands a full scale "aesthetic" production to broadcast any event in your life ! As the Priest put it "these obscure temples used to be neglected , now at least they draw people and revenue for upkeep !" Tathaasthu .
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PURANDARE WADA
Another ruined wada , but with a lot of character left intact . Especially the excellently carved wood work - pillar capitals , trellis, doorframes, eaves chiseled to perfection . Teak wood , doubtlessly.
Built in 1710 by Ambaji Purandare , a Sardar ( Regional Administrator) reporting to the Peshwa, - costing him a king's ransom : Rs.50,000 ! It is a fortified mansion with giant sized spiked wooden doors that need two or three people to push open . The stone walls go 30 feet high . Innumerable rooms, corridors, courtyards etc . Beautifully laid out , but the ambience is ghostly , though there are no reports of any ghost . At the compound entrance is a ruined Ganapathi Temple of Peshwai design.
On the first floor is a portion called "Widows Room" where the widows of the family lived secluded ( almost in solitary confinement) , doing manual work like grinding grain to earn their keep . Vestiges of an eerie mural of eyeless, veiled women remains on one of the walls. Wonder if it was one of those women who painted it .....
The wada is let out for shooting movies - not surprisingly , horror movies .
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SINHAGAD FORT
Located 28Kms away from Pune , on a cliff of the Bhuleshwar Range , in Sahyadri Mountains , 1317 meters above sea level , this Fort , earlier called Kondana (after Sage Kaundinya) and renamed by Shivaji , is the setting for many a legend and ballad of heroism , intrigue and pride .
Best known for The Battle of Sinhagad 1670 , in which the Fort was wrenched from the Mughals by Shivaji's brave men . The hero of the battle , Tanaji Malusare , who perfected the guerilla tactics that wreaked havoc on the Mughal Army , is almost deified in local lore. The battle techniques which he perfected to suit the mercilessly rugged terrain of the hills served Shivaji's army well - so well that the Mughals and later , European chroniclers , nicknamed Shivaji The Mountain Rat ( a crafty creature impossible to capture) . Tanaji promoted use of light weapons like a lance , bow and arrow, daggers , foil sword , catapult , light shield etc that did not bog down swift movement either on foot or on horse .
The technique survived in the army till the advent of cannons , after which it passed down as only a cultural sport called Mardani Khel . This sport which demands agility , swiftness, good hand-eye co-ordination and precision hand movements is now taught to children in akhadas , like workouts .
By the way , Malusare's men clambered up the steep walls and cliffs using rope and not , as urban legend has it , using monitor lizards ! ( clarified by a historian)
(A show of Mardani Khel put up by children, later in Kolhapur, was an enthralling experience .)
Tanaji Malusare was martyred in the above battle upon which Shivaji uttered the immortalized remark : "Gad ala , pan Sinha gela" ( The Fort is captured , but the Lion is lost ). He is buried within the fort and a fine memorial park has been constructed around his Samadhi .
The other Mausoleum of note , within the Fort , is that of Chhatrapati Rajaram ( aka Ramaraje) , second son of Shivaji and the third Emperor of the Marathas.
The Fort dates from the 13th Century and structures were added down the years , till the British times , though not many have survived . A space resembling a prehistoric cave shelter is believed to have served as Stables . Strange ! A Gun House stands on a picturesque cliff .
The Fort , at present , has long trails along mountain ridges , two Gates , innumerable springs , wells and tanks and two old temples . The old Fort Keepers family continue living here , running an eatery . The Poha, Onion Bajji, claypot Curds and Solkadi served by them made a memorable breakfast .
Much later , the Nationalist , Self-Rule activist , Lokamanya Bal Gangadhar Tilak , the one who roared "Swaraj is my birthright and I shall have it !", bought a bungalow in the Fort to serve as his summer retreat and peaceful writing den. Here , among others, he completed his remarkable analytical work " Arctic home in the Vedas" . The Bungalow is maintained in good shape by the family , but visits need prior permission. Swaraj did eventually happen , but Tilak had passed on before that .
PS: Singhagad region is the natural habitat of a soft furred , nocturnal , burrowing rat species called Kondana Mushika ( Millardia kondana) , which is in the critically endangered list due to human disturbances in its habitat and depletion of food . Certain groups have agitated against some tourism promoting measures to save this little creature ,which is reportedly found no where else in the world.
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SATARA
Situated near the confluence of Rivers Krishna and Venna , Satara became the Capital of the Maratha Chhatrapati Shahu-1 , grandson of Shivaji . This Shahu's life story is replete with strange twists of fate that seem almost fictional. He not only ruled for close to half a century , and was (and is ) regarded as a Saintly Statesman , an Ideal Ruler , perfect in every way . His portraits show a man in very simple attire and a kind face - hardly a regal figure . That a child taken hostage by the merciless Mughal who tortured and killed the father , Sambaji , in most ghastly manner, could have grown up loved and , nurtured by that very tyrant , groomed in all manner of fine arts and skills , without losing the Faith he was born into , is a freaky glitch in history that can only be explained by the sleight of Destiny's hand in the boy's birth-chart!
That aside , Shahu was served by the three best known Peshwas - Balaji Vishwanth , Baji Rao 1 and Balaji Baji Rao . It was Shahu who made the office a hereditory post by appointing this Bhat family , who during the reign , grew from Prime-Ministership to de fact rulers, transforming Maratha empire into an invincible force.
Just outside Satatra , where the two rivers come together in a Holy Confluence , at Sangam Mahuli , is a large grouping of temples , memorials and cremation grounds, of different periods giving the place its fame as Dakshina Kashi . The entire landscape has a dreamy , old world look .
The largest of the shrines are dedicated to Kasi Vishweswara and Rameshwara , situated on opposite banks with the river running between . Both were built in 1735, on land donated by Shahu to the governor of Aunda , Sripatrao Pant Pratinidhi . They too are of the Hemadpanthi style of architecture . Sculptures are mostly of stucco , with only a few bas reliefs in stone . Ofcourse , the eye catchers are the very tall deepamalas and the slim , soaring shikaras.
The pious Shahu Maharaj has been given a Memorial , an open pavilion with Shivalingams, on the sacred banks , with views of both the temples .
Other Samadhis of note , a short distance from Mahuli are those of Chattrapati Maharani Tarabai and Maharani Yashu bai (Mother of the saintly Shahu) . The first one is done up very ornate like a temple .
The pediment of the Nandi Mantapa at Kasi Visweswara Temple has a curious panel showing an ornamented dog . Doubtless, a Royal Dog . Dog sculptures , by themselves , are rare in temples. They are only seen accompanying either a Bhairava icon or a Dattatreya. This Dog certainly seemed to have some importance of its own .
Driving away from the "punya bhoomi", passed a reddish blocky pedestal , on which was the figure of a sitting dog . It was respectfully pointed out as the grave of Khandya ! Khandya was Shahu Maharaj's dear greyhound celebrated for his "Cheetah-like speed" during hunts.. Khandya proved his supreme loyalty when once, during a hunt, he bravely diverted a pouncing wild beast with fierce barking that (surprisingly) scared the beast away , thus saving the king . For this act of bravery , the canine soldier was awarded a "mansabdari" ( a Rank of Nobility ) and a Jagir ! Upon his death , Khandya was honoured with this red stone Samadhi .....now recall that bas relief sculpture of an ornamented Dog at the temple . Any connection ? Strong possibility , but could not get any solid proof .
Satara was the home base of Sarsenapati Hambirrao Mohite , who served as Army Commander for both Shivaji and his son Sambaji , winning many crucial victories . His utmost loyalty to Shivaji was proved when , after Shivaji's death , Soyarabai, Shivaji's second wife and sister of Hambirrao , tried to wrench the throne for her own young son Rajaram , enlisting her powerful brother's help. Though initially swayed, Hambirrao decided not to favour his meek nephew and set about installing Sambaji on the throne and serving him till his last breath . A true war general knows and does what is good for the kingdom . His Samadhi at Talbid ( his Jagir) , near Satara , is a solid, sombre looking memorial decorated with cannons and inspiring portraits of Shivaji, Sambaji and Hambirrao.
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KOLHAPUR - The Karavira Sansthan .
An offshoot of the mainline Maratha Empire , charismatic nonetheless , established and run by the remarkable Tara Bai , who won for herself the title "Chattrapati" , hitherto used only by men . Intelligent , courageous and ambitious , Tara was groomed by her Father Hambirrao Mohite to be all that his nephew Rajaram could not be , an able Warrior and Administrator . And , in a master stroke , got the girl , when 8yrs old, married to the weakling Rajaram . After Sambaji was brutally killed by Aurangazeb , Rajaram was installed as King and he ruled for merely 11 years before he died of illness. Tarabai at once assumed power as Regent, installing her infant son as King , since the first heir Shahu was taken away , captive , by the Mughals .
TaraBai wasn't a woman to be trifled with , as the Mughals and other predators realised to their bemusement . She led from the front and galvanised her army with her bold strategies . She was loathe to relinquish the throne , even after the direct heir Shahu was released by the Mughals . Asserting that it was she who had kept Shivaji's Maratha light glowing all the while , she wrangled a part of the Kingdom to establish her own Sansthan ( Royal Court) at Kolhapur with Karaviravasini Mahalakshmi as tutelary goddess , in place of Shivaji's Tulaja Bhavani .
Her son was proclaimed Chattrapati Shivaji 1 of Kolhapur , but was soon deposed by his other step brother , Sambaji-2 , who imprisoned both mother and son . Tarabai had to reconcile with good old Shahu and retire to Satara .
But ambitions die hard ! After the early death of her son , she falsely produced a "grandson" , Ramaraja , as heir and prevailed upon the childless Shahu to adopt him and had him put on throne after Shahu's death . Once again at the helm , she went about settling scores with her Peshwa rivals, even beheading rebels within her own ranks . But when the young Imposter King refused to submit to some of her plans , she called him out as a fraud . Yet the wily Peshwas retained that fellow as a figurehead and assumed full reign - effectively thumbing their noses at TaraBai . Her illustrious life ended on a quiet note .
But for Tarabai's courageous act of taking charge after the death of Shivaji, commanding people's allegiance to Shivaji's Dream and keeping the enemie, especially the Mughals, at bay , the Maratha Empire could have splintered into nothingness . She had her faults , but truly deserved the title Chattrapati .
KARAVIRAVASINI AMBABAI MAHALAKSHMI temple is a shrine to the primal feminine Power Mahamaya , who is represented here as Mahalakshmi , Mahasaraswathi and Mahakali . The Lakshmi here is not the puranic wife of Vishnu , but Mahamaya herself . The Chalukyan era temple is grand in scale , the Dwarapalas forbiddingly huge . Its all silver and shine inside .
The temple was originally a Jain Basadi , which is amply proved by the images of Jinas sprinkled along the outer walls and the central panel of the ceiling grid of the Dikpala Mantapa .
One useful feature here is that a direct view of the goddess can be had without even entering the shrine , from the entrance called Mukhadarshan dwar . So however long the lines , however chaotic the crowds , good darshan is guaranteed .
A curious fact : The outer walls of the temple have the standard Madanika sculptures in different poses , common in Chalukyan and Hoysala temples . One figure close to the entrance door to the Sabhamantapa is of a madanika , in back view , writing on a board or scroll she has held up. Also a well known pose . But here , she is pointed out as " Satwai Devi" - the deity who writes the destiny of newborns ! ....no arguing with Faith . We humans can create the emotional supports we need out of any available resource.
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PALACES and FORTS
Having filled our heads with tales of Kings and Generals , it was necessary to fill our eyes with visions of some Palaces .
The New Palace , a 19th Century , double-storeyed , Neo-Mughal structure of Basalt and sandstone , with trefoil arches , small domes and curving cornices , serves as a museum for pictures and artifacts relating to the Maratha empire . Grand to look at on the outside , shabbily kept, inside . A zoo and a large lake are also within the compound .
The other palace , Lakshmi Vilas, the birth palace of Rajasri Shahu Maharaja of Kolhapur, has been converted into a swanky place , housing a museum of stuff related to this 19th century King who is venerated locally as the ultimate Do-Gooder in public cause . A visionary , a social reformer , an educationist with scientific temper , a modernist , promoter of all arts etc etc .
A train-car like wagon , fitted out as a plush office and pulled by an elephant ( model now ) was The Mobile Office used by the King during travel it seems ! Never wasted time,did he!
One unexpected thrill was getting to see the original "Waghnaka"( Tiger Claw weapon ) used by Shivaji to kill Afzal Khan in 1659 , exhibited here . It is on a 3 year loan from V&A Museum of London to be rotated among Museums in Maharashtra to mark the 350th year of Shivaji's Coronation .
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PANHALGAD : Some 20 kms from Kolhapur , built on a strategic location on a trade route from Bijapur to the coast , is this Fort Of Snakes ( so named for the zigzagging pathways) where Rani Tara Bai spent her formative years , training to be a leader . The Fort was built long before Shivaji conquered and improved upon it . Originated by the Shilaharas in the 12th Century , it was subsequently held by the Yadavas of Devagiri , the Bahamanis of Bidar and the Adil Shahis of Bijapur before Shivaji sacked it .
Panhala is one of the largest forts of Deccan and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tag of Maratha Fortifications .
It has many interesting structures like the Andhar Bawdi ( hidden well ), Amberkhana(a set of 3 Graneries) of Bijapuri times, Dharma kothi ( a supplementary granary to hold grains for free distribution to the needy ), Courtesan's terrace ( Nayakini sajja) , a beautiful Viewing Hall of Adil Shahis ( Sajja Kothi) , the massive, ornate double gateways ( Teen Darwaza and Wagh darwaza )and the Rajdindi bastian (a hidden exit which Shivaji had once used to escape.) Did not visit Tarabai's palace because it is being used as a school and hostel currently .
Being a touristy place , it swarms with snack vendors selling local delicacies : misalpav , pithla bhakri , Tambadarassa , kokum sherbet , khaanda baji , solkadi and .....( ahem) popcorn .
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The Nobles
Done with Palaces and Forts , there was still something missing . What about the descendants of those historic folk - the Peshwas , Jagirdars , Maankaris(Nobles) etc ? How are they faring now ?
Well , when Princely States merged with the Republic , and later , the Privy Purses were abolished , some of these grandees transitioned to businesses , some emigrated , some turned their property into good real estate ventures and some faded away .
Had the opportunity to meet up with one family of Nobles , who have moved into food business / hoteliering . They have retained their early 20th century mansion and their usual heirlooms like crystalware and animal-head trophies .
Jolly types , the entire family . The head of the family launched into a recap of the history of Maratha Empire , starting with Shivaji Maharaj ending with a shower of praises on the last Shahu Maharaj . Recounted with personal pride . For some , History is just family lore .
( PS : It can get pretty confusing if one cannot keep track of dates , for there are way too many people with same names . Multiple Shivajis, Shahus, Rajarams and Sambas . Like, the Royals couldn't spare a few minutes to find a different name for each newborn ! )
Treated to their choicest fare from the hotel they run, in their tastefully arranged garden . They were disappointed that our group was Veg and Vegan , when their treasured Centuries- old Family Secret Recipe was meat based !
Kolhapuri food , as feared , was not that very spicy except for that one podi , the mere whiff of which set the eyes and nose watering .
Wound up Kolhapur visit without even entering a footwear shop .
Bragging rights -"We are different ".
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Notes :
The Maratha Confederacy , created from the core Maratha Kingdom founded by Shivaji , was a decentralised federation of regional states ruled by Peshwas, Scindias, Holkars , Gaekwads and Bhonsales . It was recognised as the dominant power between 1674 and 1818 over all of Deccan .
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